Monday, June 30, 2008

By Way of Introduction

I am officially entering the world of blogging. Partly because of seeing my wife and friends enjoying it so much, partly because I always have something to say or share (some of which may even be of value to someone else); and partly to help add a few positive bits to the Internet that may offset the filthy or bad things roaming it's pathways. Since my wife's blog http://www.petersonputterings.blogspot.com/ shares some of the latest things about our family I plan to go beyond just our family and share other things I enjoy.

The key items I will share in the blog are a mixed bag of things related to autobody repair and fabrication, my family, my church, Boy Scouting. I hope you enjoy your visits and share your thoughts and experiences with me and others.
~Lance
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Fabrication 101

So, you want to do your own bodywork?
(Part 1 – Starter tools)

It is possible to do your own bodywork - but, recognize that you will need to spend a little on the basic tools to even make it worthwhile. Other tools make it easier, but are more expensive and can sometimes be borrowed or rented. My grandfather, Coy Lee, had a good philosophy when it comes to deciding whether to borrow or purchase a tool. “If you use it more than twice a year, consider buying it.” I would amend his rule slightly to say then “If it costs less than $200 and you use it more than twice a year - buy it.” If it is between $200 – 500 borrow or rent it the first year or two, then buy it since it is obvious you plan on using it on more than just your original “fixer-upper”.

After having said all that, what are the bare necessities of bodywork tools? Assuming you are not going to tackle any sheet straightening bigger than small door dings or dents and creases in areas where you can readily reach the back side and beat with a hammer; here is the bare-bones list of tools.

> A body hammer and dolly set with 3 hammers: wedge, pick, and shrinking. Cheap sets typically are just as good as expensive ones. Except for the shrinking hammer, which should be flat, the hammer heads should have a slight crown to them.
> One or two small palm sixed sanding blocks . They should be stiff but slightly flexible.
> One twelve inch sanding block. It Should be stiff but flexible – I was taught to tape 3 paint mixing stick together – it will do in a pinch.
> A package of plastic putty spreaders. Typically yellow polyethylene plastic for easy cleaning.
> A six inch disk action (DA) sander. A cheap model will usually cost under $60 dollars and do fine for starters
> One or two Body putty files. Often nicknamed “cheese graters”.
> One air blow gun.
A cheap pistol type grinder for paint removal. Also usually under $60.
> A cheap paint gun. Don’t spend more than $100 – the cheap knockoffs often work just as well as the $500 guns and will do even after you decide how committed you are to future paint work.
> A small air compressor. This will be your most expensive purchase would best have a two stage pump for fast recovery when running your air tools. It can still be 100V, but 220 V units are typically stronger and longer lasting. It should put out 115 cfm of higher apir pressure. Don’t spend more than $500 on one. You can always go for a bigger unit latter, if you choose to really get into bodywork.
> A tight fitting respirator for painting. I recommend the Survivair brand, but others are just as good. Make sure the vendor teaches you how to properly fit it to your face.
> Loose fitting paper “dust nuisance” masks. For use while sanding. Buy a box – they are cheap and can be used for home repair and other uses.
> Sandpaper for hand and block sanding and use on your DA. I recommend paper in grits, 36, 80, 1880, 240, and 320. You should buy 6” DA and rolls in all the suggested grits. I recommend rolls rather than sheets because they come in widths to fit standard sanding blocs and work well for hand sanding. Sheet paper is always to big and requires a lot of cutting or tearing down to size.
> Safety glasses or goggles. You won’t be doing body work for long if you end up with metal shavings in your eye.
With this basic setup you can do light body work like door dings and things not requiring dent pulling or cut–and-replace welding. You will also need some consumables like paper shop towels, nitride gloves, paint sticks, paint strainers, etc. I’ll go into more detail as we go through each repair step in future articles. You total starting investment will be from $500 - $800, so buy it piece at a time as you can afford it. Buy the compressor last; you could even rent one for your first job just in case it turns out to be your only job.
Why do I say that? Bodywork, while very rewarding when finished, is a lot of hard work and, unlike mechanical work, the sanding part is a bit monotonous. Body shaping also takes developing a good “feel” literally to insure that the panel is straight.
In my next article I’ll start you through the body repair process. Along the way I’ll give you tips and suggest more expensive but time saving tools you can add to your box, if you decide you will do more vehicles in the future. Until then, get shopping.

~lp Sept 2008

E-mail me and I can send you a PDF copy of any of these past articles:
> POR 15: Rust Solution (Article 1)

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